Tea Reviews | It's All About The Leaf

Posts Tagged ‘mark t wendell tea company’

In the interest of full disclosure, I didn’t mean to select this tea. I saw the Mark T. Wendell name (which generally means really good stuff) and didn’t link the name “Hu-Kwa” to lapsang souchong–which it is. My first experience with pure lapsang souchong was not a good one—I likened it to sucking on liquid pork rinds, gave the leaves to a friend who liked it even less, and I think it became somebody’s house plant fertilizer.

However, honor-bound as a taste-tester, I bucked up and made a weak half-hearted pot (light on the leaf, barely 2 minutes on the steep) on a wickedly snowy Sunday afternoon … and was pleasantly surprised to discover that this variety actually tastes like tea! The campfire aroma hits you hard and strong, both in the dry leaf and in the cup, but the smoke taste was sweet, not salty—toasted marshmallows instead of burnt bacon.

When I did a little exploring on the Wendell website, I discovered that the recommended optimum steep was five and a half whole minutes…well past my comfort zone. But in the interest of due diligence, I made another cup, gave it the proper steeping time and took a timid sip, expecting “essence of short ribs.” Under the pine smoke, the tea flavor was a little stronger and more puckery, but it wasn’t unbearably strong as I expected.

Hu-Kwa, a blend exclusive to Mark T. Wendell, will no doubt stoke the fires of bona fide lapsang souchong fans. It didn’t turn me into a flaming devotee, but it did teach me that well-prepared smoky tea need not be a turnoff, either.

You can purchase the Hu-Kwa Lapsang Souchong directly from the Mark T. Wendall Tea Company website.

I prepared this tea in an almost reverential mood because the reputation of Mark T. Wendell teas is excellent.  And I was not disappointed.   Their River Mist Green tea is a great delicacy.  According to the Wendell web site, this tea is an “unusual Chinese green [which]  has abundant silver strands among the twisted green leaves and unopened buds. It’s supple, rich flavor is easy on the palate and a treat to drink.”  

This is no hyperbole at all.  This tea is a clear winner.  I’ve been tasting a lot of green teas lately noticing which ones manage to forge a distinctive identity on the memory of my nose and palate.  River Mist Green is a winner in terms of delicacy and refinement.  This is a tea to be sipped with attention and pleasure and not to be slurped down efficiently (and I do like teas that deliver huge flavor and caffeine while being hastily slurped). 

Mark T. Wendell’s River Mist Green is of the former company.  Choice, classy, and charming, it can serve as a centerpiece for entertainment or for quiet times alone.  I enjoyed every sip as if it were a delicate wine.  The tea does not have any overtly vegetal notes, which will be a recommendation for green tea lovers who don’t want to drink spinach juice.  This tea, instead, is what I would call bright, fresh, delicate, and refined.  It’s a very swanky tea but also an eminently affordable one.  

You can purchase the River Mist directly from the Mark T. Wendall Tea Company website.

The dry leaves are black, small and wiry.
The smell of the dry leaves…smoke.
This is my first experience with a smoky tea. The smell from the bag reminds me of cigars.

This smoky smell is now very faint, almost pleasant. The wet leaves have unfurled quite a bit, you can see larger leaves that look brown-green in color and smaller leaf segments that are one tone brown. Looking at the wet leaves reminds me of a melted brown crayon. The texture begs you to touch the leaves, they are soft and velvety.

The brew is a reddish liquid that looks like velvet in my glass tea cup. Smooth taste with no bitterness, but that smoke is still there in the background waving his hand at my taste buds. If you like smoke in teas, then this could your tea. As for me, I am still on the hunt for that one perfect “gotta have it” tea for my cupboard.

You can purchase the Victorian Afternoon directly from the Mark T. Wendell website.

Having settled into a mood for tea tasting on an overcast summer day in my garden, I examined the dry leaf of the Mark T. Wendell Dragonwell Green Tea. Do others see the emerald green and blue colours in the flat dry Dragonwell leaf? After plucking and withering, these tea leaves are pressed and pan-fired (tossed in a hot wok) to stop the enzyme process. Often the smell and taste of the roasting will get into the leaves, leaving a slight smokiness. Not in this case. In fact, the roasting has been handled with the care the tea deserves. Dragonwell is a style of tea, found from the Zhejiang province of China. Dragonwell is typically made from a bud and one or two leaves. The whole leaves are distinctively emerald green and flat and as mentioned above, are pan-fired. Dragonwell tea liquor has a pale greeny-yellow liquor with the scent of fresh-cut grass and toasted chestnuts. It leans towards the savory, with a unique sweet and slightly bitter quality that invites one to drink more of this mellow brew.

As you see in the photo, I examine both the dry leaves (on the right) and the wet (on the left). Whether it is from rough-handling of the packaging, the leaves were most often broken and not very distinctive by the usually elegantly flat leaves. I looked into the centre of the package to see if the leaves were more protected there but found that the leaves were also broken. While the leaves were small attesting to their spirited youthfulness, I concluded that this tea is not the highest of qualities as it contains many single broken leaves and very little sets of a bud and a leaf or two. I was a bit disappointed that my sample was not going to be a connoisseur’s delight and had to lower my expectation to the sample which is typical of a commercially available tea. With that in mind, I prepared myself because if the tea makes it to a typically Dragonwellian taste characteristic, it is still economically viable for a mass consumer market, even if it doesn’t look pretty.

I started with 2.5 grams (0.08818 oz. or about 1 heaping dessert spoonful) of tea in about 150 ml ( 5 ounces) of water in a traditional Gaiwan, the yellow vessel that you see in the accompanying photo. The vessel was warmed first. The water temperature was 80 degrees Celsius (185 Fahrenheit). I timed at 45 seconds with a gentle stir a few seconds before steeping had finished. As evident by the leaves floating on the surface, the water had not been absorbed by the leaves. I decided to extend the timing to 1 minute, thinking that this tea may need a higher temperature at 85 degrees C. (190 F.) or more patience on my part, probably the latter. Leaves that don’t absorb the water right away tend to float on the surface. Usually this means the temperature isn’t quite right to activate the leaf. Sometimes adding a few drops of hot water to the leaves will help them wake up and will expand slightly taking on the heaviness of the water before the initial flow of water over the leaves. It’s sometimes a trade-off between more steep time or a higher temperature. Some Dragonwells can become very bitter in a longer steep. As this is a tea for the general consumer, the astringency would be low and the leaf must be able to tolerate mistakes of the server, such as very hot water and a long steep time. You still have to provide a good cup of tea at the end of the day.

The slow release of the leaf reveals that the second steeping will need to be a steep of about 30-40 seconds and a third steeping a bit longer, maybe up to 1 minute to extract the final liquor without astringency surfacing. When I checked back to the Wendell web site looking for instructions about the Dragonwell, I didn’t find any so I was left on my own to make decisions about its preparation.

I like to smell the vapours before pouring off the tea, lifting the lid of the Gaiwan near the end of the steep to smell the scented steam as it rises. The inside of the lid offers a special opportunity to get up close and personal with an initial impression. I could smell the toasted chestnuts and some vegetative high notes. I poured off some into my cup to cool down and the remainder into a small 6 oz. glass pitcher for a later refill. Before drinking, I raised the steamy wet leaves to my nose to take a good sniff, thinking how all those olfactory receptors were picking up information that would translate into tasting notes if I just let my brain function naturally. When I raised the cup of liquor to my nose, there were soft grassy notes. The colour of the liquor was typical of Dragonwell, pale lemon-yellow and an attractive green-emerald tinge.

Taking a first sip, I found the tea to be bright and warm over the tongue. There was a distinctive feeling of the tea bringing its fullness in the mouth. The tea stimulated some secretions of saliva, making me think that this tea would be good to accompany a meal as it would provide some ease to digestion. There was a slight citrus finish but the taste washed out quickly. This would be a good afternoon sipper because of its low astringency and low complexity so it would not compete with food so could be served with fish, seafood, or cucumber or egg tea sandwiches . There was no doubt I had a physical response to the tea. I breathed in and out like I was letting go of some busy-ness of the day. My shoulders started to relax and I nestled into my garden chair. I seemed to melt into the air and let the tea provide its healing. Any tea that does that has achieved its purpose, in my books.

This tea is not as robust or complex as I’d like to see for a Dragonwell. The tea retained its colour well through 3 steepings. The 4th washed out the taste and the colour weakened. The Wendell Dragonwell is pretty typical of a commercial tea and no doubt is a mid-range, standard loose tea that can be handled successfully by many different preferences and through different preparations. Now if it only looked better as a whole tea, I’d be happier.

You can purchase the Dragonwell Green directly from the Mark T. Wendall Tea Company website.

To begin this review, I have to say that I’m a bit of a sucker for pu-erh sold in bird’s nest form, just because I think it looks really cool. However, I will attempt to not let this affect the bias of my review. Soooo, without further ado…

The dry tuocha smelled dark, dark and rich. Its very earthy scent had a touch of spicy notes to it as well. Wet, it had spicy and tobacco tones about it.

I chose to infuse this using multiple short infusions of about 30 seconds each.

First infusion: The liquor was still very bright and clear, a light brown in colour. It smelled faintly of the dry tuocha. The taste is very light, and I wonder if 30 seconds is not long enough. It certainly does taste earthy though. It is not as spicy as the smell led me to believe.

Second infusion: This time, the brown liquor deepened and darkened in colour, while maintaining its brightness. The scent is now very earthy, with almost a bit of fishy smell to it. Mmm, the taste has deepened. Full-bodied, the liquor tastes earthy and mellow. It goes down smooth, as though it barely brushes the tongue and throat.

Third infusion: The colour of the tea is now a deep brown, nearing dark chocolate in colour. The aroma has not changed much, but the flavour is much stronger and feels more mature. Very delicious at this point. I am quite enjoying this tea and I wonder how long this tuocha will last.

Fourth infusion: This cup was just as enjoyable as the third and had the same strength and characteristics. It seems as though this tea could certainly continue with more infusions. When I have more time, perhaps I will give one of these tuocha a test of how long it can last.

I loved being able to try this tea as it continued to grow and mature in taste and aroma. I truly cannot wait to drink it again. I rate it an 85/100 on my personal enjoyment scale!

You can purchase the Pu-Erh Tuocha directly from the Mark T. Wendall Tea Company website.